The following conversion was developed by Scott Potter
(m201 no. 13542) in the US. Scott wrote:
This is what I came up with for a
dry air cleaner for the 201. First don’t get me
wrong, I have nothing against oil bath air cleaners,
but the WOF housing has several cork gaskets that I
cant get, and it would have taken me longer to make
them, than it did for this conversion. I'm not
thinking in the metric system today so everything
will be fractional. So here we go...
First I needed prints of existing
elements so I could find the best one. I found
nothing from the major manufacturers, but found this
site from K&N Filters who you may have heard of.
They have a search function that allowed me to
search filters buy dimension. Thus I found this one,
its Nappa PN# 2143 that crosses to Fram # CA568, AC#
A633C, and a host of others. Its almost the same
dimensions as the org. wire bath element.
If you look at the link there
is also a Honda part that may be even better, as its
closed at one end, but I couldn't get that one today
so I went with the NAPA part that you see above.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/univ2.aspx?ID=S0001
I had only one of
the original cork gaskets left, and luckily it was
the one that the element sits up into in the top of
the housing. Without the cork, the element seals
quite well, but with it, its seals perfectly.
As I
studied the WOF cleaner I
found that if you take the
bottom support cup off and
invert it, it will fit the
element and seal quite well,
it’s the same ID as the top
of the housing (hard to see
in the pics)
To
make this work, I had to
close and seal the vents or
louvers in the org. cup. It
was easy to first just peen
and bend them closed. I
thought I would weld them
shut, then thought of an
epoxy I use in the shop
quite often. Its made by
Permatex, and called Cold
Weld. Its for metal, and
I've sealed an old radiator
or two with it, and after
years its never failed, so I
used that, clean and prep
the area, and its easy.
To make
that set up work I had to
lengthen the retaining screw
that secures the element up
into the filter housing. For
that I cut a piece of 1/4 20
threaded rod to 7 3/4
inches, and installed a
large area washer and wing
nut. (I later replaced the
wing nut with a self locking
nut.)
I tack
welded the rod to the
mounting bracket to prevent
it backing down in service,
and installed it back into the housing.
For
the other areas I used some
sealant, (the gasket at the
bottom at the clips is no
longer a factor, as there's
nothing to leak out), it may
not be called for, but I
like to go the extra step
sometimes, and when I
service the unit to replace
the element, cleaning the
rtv and resealing it will be
no issue compared to
servicing the old oil bath
type.
A 'nylock'
self-locking nut and washer
hold everything together.
Oops,
the mounting bracket is on
upside down in the last two
photos - sorry!
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